It's Official!

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I have been bursting with "Mom" news over this last week or so, waiting first to find out if things were really going to work out and then waiting for the news to become "Facebook official" after he notified family members.  Now I can let it out!  My son who has been living and working in Tanzania these last 5 years is coming home in October - and not just for a visit!  The organization he works for has agreed with him that the communication aspect of his job - which is really the most important part - can be done more efficiently and effectively stateside.  He had been planning a visit home in October with his girlfriend, but let me know when we last Skyped that there was a very good possibility that when he arrived he would have all his belongings with him -- and now it's official!  

I know he will be experiencing some very bittersweet emotions these next few months as he prepares to leave the country, friends, and family who have been his life for five years, and I know he faces quite a transition in this move, not just a visit, back to America.  We are not the same country we were when he left.  But, I also know that he will be surrounded by family and friends who love and support him.  And, I know he will continue the incredible work that he does and perhaps find new, exciting ways to share it here, bridging needs in East Africa with caring individuals and groups stateside. I, for one, am starting to count the days until I get to say, "Welcome home!"

Wordless Wednesday

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Tuesday's Tanzania

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It was the afternoon of our final day in Moshi, and we were gathered where we had started our trip - in Andrew's yard, with Mt. Kilimanjaro looking down upon us.  This was going to be the hard part.  Andrew's good friend, who had provided us with great taxi service when we needed it around the city had arrived to take us to the airport, leaving a little time for some farewell photos.

 I love the photos with our son, but I have to admit that my favorite from the day is this one - Andrew's two "mamas."  Now I know that he is an adult and living on his own and all that - but moms do worry, right?  No need to really do that now that I've met Mama - she is taking great care of him (even if maybe he doesn't always want it) ;)

 

 

Visiting Tanzania was a trip of a lifetime, and we made memories that will last as long, indeed.  However, both hubby and I said the most wonderful part of our time there was getting to spend that extended time with Andrew alone, just relaxing and talking, sharing drinks and learning more about his work, the life he has built there, and discovering the young man he has become.  That's why saying goodbye was so very hard.

 

Tuesday's Tanzania - Stone Town from Above and Below

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Our final full day in Zanzibar was spent learning the history of Stone Town by taking a walking tour of the architecturally-rich city.  The view from above was both breathtaking, but again, showed us "two stories" of Zanzibar, while the view from below was a reality we will never forget, shared with us by a gifted guide of the island that we were blessed to have met.

Stone Town is the heart of Zanzibar's tourism and holds incredible architechural examples of the island's Persian, Arab, Indian, and European influences over the years.  It is famous for these doors with the large spikes which come from the Indian background - protection from elephants used in wars (purely for decorative use in Zanzibar).

Our walking guide took us to the top of a couple of special sites so we could overlook the city from different points -- at our first stop we had a perfect view of our hotel, nestled in the narrow streets and alleyways of shops.
 

Beneath these rooftops are mazes of shops and homes - shops we had stopped in - stoops with children we passed by each day.  And from another rooftop later in the morning we saw the beautiful beaches of Zanzibar and the blue waters of the Indian Ocean.

 

We will never forget our afternoon tour with our guide, Christopher, at the Church of Christ, an Anglican church, built on the site of what was the largest slave market in Zanzibar.  Christopher, who introduced himself by saying that many Americans had told him he looked and sounded exactly like Morgan Freeman (he did), told us the history of slavery in Zanzibar, taking us down into the chambers where the slaves were held.

The small windows were the only access for air and light, and the chambers would house hundreds of people at a time.  Being in the space and hearing the reality of what had happened there was overwhelming.  Outside of the church is a memorial sculpture to the slaves, using original iron shackles and chains from the time.

The church built on the site is indeed a beautiful one, with significant markers throughout - the altar is built on the spot where the whipping post of the market once stood;  the wooden cross on display is made of wood from the tree where the heart of Scottish explorer (and anti-slavery crusader), David Livingstone, was buried ("Dr. Livingstone, I presume?").

The church is built of mostly coral stone and the contrast with the stained glass windows adds to their beauty.

Next week - one more look around and saying goodbye.

Tuesday's Tanzania

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Zanzibar is famous for its spice plantations which also in turn support the island's tourism business.  Thanks to Ali (last week's post), we enjoyed a wonderful and very informative tour -- who knew that the root of the cinnamon tree smelled just like Vicks-Vapo-Rub!?  (Well, actually, remember Idi?  From the village? See post here...Idi - in addition to being a brick maker and farmer - was also a traditional medicine practitioner and had taken Andrew out to collect items he needed on different occasions....and on one of these outings, when Andrew was suffering from a bad cold, Idi dug into the bottom of a tree, lifted out a small root, and told Drew to take a whiff....yep, Vicks-Vapo-Rub!).

By the end of our walking tour, I had a collection of leaves, berries, nuts, roots, and bark - all of which smelled incredible - black pepper, cinnamon, vanilla beans, curry, cardamom, cloves, cumin...more than I can recall.

 

At the end of our walking tour, we were treated to what I'm pretty sure was routine at all of the plantations but still a thrill to watch.  One of our guides climbed a coconut tree using only his feet, singing all the way, to retrieve fresh fruit for us to enjoy.  When he reached the top, he serenaded us some more and then lopped of a few of the coconuts, letting them drop to the ground -- and then, again, using his feet, made his way back down.

 

The guides split open the coconuts and passed them around to us so that we could first enjoy the milk -- what pure, fresh sweetness!  After draining both of them dry, we got to enjoy the meat of the coconut -- again, such sweetness!  I'll never be able to enjoy that package of shredded stuff from the grocery store again -- and don't suggest that I just buy a coconut....I can't even begin to think how I would manage to open one as easily as those two did it!

Next week - we tour Stone Town and meet Morgan Freeman...well, sort of.

Tuesday's Tanzania

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Welcome to Zanzibar! We spent a wonderful (hot, but wonderful!) four days in this beautiful part of Tanzania.  But, we also learned quickly that in Zanzibar, things aren't always what they appear.

On our first evening, Andrew introduced us to dinner at the fish market - just stroll among the vendors and pick out your supper - ahh!  But oh, the evening turned out to be so much more!

Here, Andrew and I are approaching what will be our final choice...and...

Meet, Ali...fisherman extraordinaire aka Zanzibar tour guide, taxi provider, city escort...

Ali introduced himself to us as the island fisherman who, along with his son, earlier that day had gone out in their boat and brought in the incredible assortment of seafood displayed on the tables before us.  We made our selections; Ali told his crew to begin grilling and directed us to take a seat at one of the tables over by the waterfront and to order drinks (the owner of the drink stand made sure we understood those drinks were not included with the dinner we had just paid for).  ;)

After delivering our dinners to us himself, Ali sat down with us and asked what our plans were for the following day, mentioning one of the area spice plantations, popular stops in Zanzibar.  Ali's English was excellent, and Andrew told him that we were planning to visit one through a contact our hotel owner had.  "Ahh," said Ali, smiling, as he opened his cell phone and scrolled through numbers.  We could have guessed what was coming next -- yes, Ali had another contact for a spice plantation and named a price.  When we told him that the hotel owner's price was cheaper, suddenly Ali had a new price for us and included taxi service to and from the hotel and lunch after the plantation tour - Ali was great!  By the end of the evening, he and Andrew had traded cell phone numbers - for this trip and for Andrew's future visits. You know, it just now dawned on me that I never did look over to see who took over Ali's fish stand that night...

A simple island fisherman?  Another lesson in Zanzibar's appearances can be deceiving.

Tuesday's Tanzania

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I know, I know - last week I promised Zanzibar today, and clearly that is not remotely close.  But I realized before leaving our safari journey, I needed to share some "special" photos with you.

Now remember that we were in Africa visiting our 27-year-old son, who has always had a great sense of humor...think "Calvin & Hobbes" and you'll pretty much understand Andrew growing up as a kid (I think he did have every one of the C&K books, come to think of it).  So, as we were on safari we did come upon some "special moments" when Andrew would grab the camera and say, "Oh, yeah, we need a shot of this!"

So, before we leave our safari - first, some of what I call "Andrew's Special Pics."  You can title them yourself.  I will tell you that one photo did not come out - the one of the leopard puking.  Yeah...

A few more fun safari photos I would like to make into a photo book for the grandkiddos - a kind of "Where's Waldo?" but animal version.  Let's see how you do!

1.

2.

3.

4.

Next week - Zanzibar, Part I (promise!)

Answers (in case you need a little help): 1. Lion; 2. Giraffe; 3. Leopard; 4. Crocodile

Tuesday's Tanzania

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Our final safari day brought us an incredible sunrise at the crater's rim on Ngorongoro - once, again, a photo can't capture the beauty of what we experienced but here are a couple that try.

Crater Sunrise 2, a photo by signaturesterling on Flickr.

Crater Sunrise 4, a photo by signaturesterling on Flickr.

The white clouds surrounding the crater cradled the soft pink sunrise as it came up over a new beautiful day - a day where we would come face-to-face with the reality of life in the wild.  This is the day where I would finally have to see what I never would see in a zoo and what I would switch the channel on if it appeared on television - yep, I'm a squeamish one, not good with the realities of blood and violence in any setting.  But as they say, the circle of life...

We first noticed this herd of zebra who had come to complete "attention," across a ravine from our jeep.   
                                                                    

 

They were standing perfectly still because this lioness, who had just fed on a zebra (we found the carcass later - no pic, yuck), was approaching on the other side of the ravine.

 

 

Yes, that is what it looks like in and around her mouth

 

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In case you really needed a close-up

 

While most of the herd remained at attention, out of the shot, we watched a few adult zebras shepherd a baby zebra far out of harm's way.

 

 

The lioness got closer and closer.

 

 

But the herd remained completely still.

 

 

And as the lioness began growling for her pride, we saw not just zebra, but also, wildebeests and gazelles standing perfectly still.

 

 

For quite a while, it looked like it would be a stand-off.

 

 

When we finally left her, the lioness had claimed her spot this side of the ravine, still growling, calling for her pride.

 

 

A little later in the day, we came across another pride where two lionesses had taken down a wildebeest.  Here was an example of the hierarchy of "the kill and the feast."  After the lionesses had made the kill and their lion had eaten (see last photo, right), the lionesses shared a meal.

 

 

I think either hubby or Andrew was taking the photos at this point as I remember one of them saying, "Ooh, they're pulling off its leg! Cool!"  Yeah, I was covering my eyes.

 

The cubs were off to the side, waiting for their turn.

 

And, pacing "patiently" back and forth in the background, waiting for everyone to be done so that he could pick at the leftovers was a jackal.

 

 

A place for everyone in the circle of life.

 

Next week - the exotic and historic Zanzibar